INDIA

We just got back from Rajasthan, India, and while Biblical India was probably the region further west*, I thought I would share some impressions from our trip here on my Bible Lands page.

What surprised me was how little "Asian" it felt (I mean East Asian). We learned that the East Asian-like India is the south of the country and that the northern areas have a very distinctive culture. The architecture, decorative elements, colors, spices and bazaars, the landscapes and vegetation, the traditions, handicrafts, and so much more reminded me constantly of Morocco and other Arab countries. I expected Aladdin to jump out of the streets of Agra(ba) at any moment ;). This must be the result of the former Mughal occupation, but even before that this region was part of the famous spice route that connected it to the West.

* Scholars generally suggest the region drained by the Indus River and its tributaries - in today's Pakistan. However, the exact area referred to in the Bible as "India" is uncertain (Es 1:1; 8:9). 

One of many stories.

It was a desire for an authentic experience that led us to book a train to Jodhpur instead of going by taxi, as we usually did. We anticipated a slow, 5-hour ride in the second-class and arrived at the station one hour early to find the right platform and soak in the atmosphere.

It turned out that our train was delayed by six hours, but a conductor directed us to another train that was going in the same direction. As we reached the platform, the train was already in motion. I called out to the conductor hanging out of one of the wagons, asking if this train was bound for Jodhpur. He nodded and signaled for us to jump into the next wagon.

We hesitated. Jumping onto a moving or rather speeding up train? With our luggage (though we only had hand luggage.. but still)? And without a valid ticket? As the last wagon passed us, through the fog in my head I heard the people on the platform shouting, "Jump! Jump!" So, ignoring Anton's doubtful look, I jumped. Anton followed with the suitcases.

The last wagon turned out to be special - not only reserved for disabled people but also not connected to the rest of the train by any passage. This was also where everyone arriving late was jumping on, just like us.

It took us a couple of hours to find out which train we were on and to explain our situation to a conductor. By then, we were already sitting on the floor after giving up our half-seat to a crippled man. The space was filling up at every station.. oh and by the way, I was sick and had fever.

Eventually, with the help (on his initiative) of a fellow traveler, a soldier on his way home, we managed to change wagons. It took us about 15 minutes to run to the front of the train, and only then did we realize how impossibly long it was. It turned out to be a sleeper train that traveled over 70 hours between its endpoints.

Settling down on one of the beds in the second class, hidden from other passengers by curtains, we spent the rest of the trip regretting having left that last wagon. In the time we were there, we met so many people and could tell incredible stories and anecdotes. But that's for another time...

Our itinerary in short. 

2 DAYS DELHI

Ugrasen ki Baoli Stepwell • Lodhi Gardens • Safdarjung Tomb • Humayun Tomb • Yamuna Ghat

2 DAYS AGRA

Taj Mahal • Agra Fort • Mehtab Bagh Gardens

4 DAYS JAIPUR

City Palace • Hawa Mahal • Gaitor Ki Chhatriyan • Wall of Amer Hike • Amer Fort • Panna Kund Stepwell • Aravali Hills Hike • Patrika Gate

2 DAYS JODHPUR

"Blue City" District • Mehrangarh Fort • Jaswant Thada • Toorji ki Jhalra Stepwell • Clock Tower and Sardar Market

4 DAYS UDAIPUR

City Palace • Bahubali Hill Hike • Dharohar Folk Show • Jagdish Temple • Gangour and Ambrai Ghats • Markets and Havelis

Sunrise.

It is in my opinion the most beautiful time of the day, but this is especially true for India. In the winter months, a dense fog covers the grounds of the cities, and when you climb up one of the hills, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking views and light.

Some of these hills are places of worship, with temples such as the Temple of the Sun and the Galta Ji Temple in Jaipur, nestled atop and in a cleft of the Aravali hills, which is considered a holy place where bathing rituals are performed every morning.

We came for the breathtaking scenery and the monkey colony that occupies the space around the temples.

The Taj Mahal.

Perhaps the most iconic landmark in all of India. Arriving in Agra one afternoon, with the sun shining brightly and the sky almost free of fog, we decided to go straight to the Taj, even though we had already booked tickets for the next morning. I had read that during the winter months the fog can be so thick that you can't see anything within 100 meters. Not wanting to miss the Taj Mahal, we lined up with probably a million others. Needless to say, there was no atmosphere at all, every inch of the grounds was covered, the noise level competing with Disney Land and winning ... but well, at least we saw this cultural jewel in clear view.

The next morning we still went for the sunrise and our first sight as we entered the area was the same as the photo above, but without any people... and without the Taj Mahal ;). At first a little disappointment crept in and we kept saying "good we came yesterday", but as time passed and we explored the building inside and out, with only a few others hidden somewhere by the dense fog, the chirping of hundreds of birds accompanying us, and the Taj Mahal wrapped in a cloud creating a unique, farytail-like atmosphere, I would honestly say: If I had to choose, I'd choose the foggy morning.

Final words.

India exceeded our expectations in every way... it felt familiar on so many levels, as we found pieces of many countries we have visited, brought together here in a beautiful blend. The travelling was uncomplicated, the food was excellent, the atmosphere relaxed, and for me it's one of the most photogenic places I've ever been. It was one of those trips where you enjoy and learn and are constantly amazed!

Published on February 2024